Royal Street

The story

Royal Street is the French Quarter's antiques and gallery row. It starts at Canal Street, directly across from St. Charles Avenue, among the hotel blocks and runs to Esplanade Avenue. Gallery row begins around the 400 block, and past St. Philip the street turns quiet and residential.

It suits shoppers after serious antiques, estate jewelry and fine art, with a few boutiques and costume shops mixed in. Almost everything worth a stop sits between the 200 and 900 blocks.

What to Expect

The antiques dealers are old family firms. M.S. Rau was founded in 1912 and is now run by third-generation owner Bill Rau, selling museum-grade fine art, period furniture, rare objects and antique and signed jewelry. Royal Antiques (309) is a fourth-generation dealer with over 20,000 sq ft of French, English, Italian and Biedermeier furniture, chandeliers, mirrors and estate jewelry across three historic buildings. James H. Cohen & Sons (437), founded in 1898, is one of the city's largest coin dealers, with antique weapons and historical documents beside the coin cases. Wellington & Co. Fine Jewelry (505) sells antique and estate pieces, signed Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels, and pre-owned Rolex, and does repairs and appraisals.

The galleries range from blue-chip editions to local work. Martin Lawrence Galleries (433) has original works and editions by Picasso, Chagall, Warhol and Erté. Angela King Gallery (241) shows about 25 American and Western European artists, Elliott Gallery (540) is owner-run with contemporary and modern art, and IRIS Galerie (640) and 812 Royal Gallery (812) mix emerging and established artists. Rodrigue Studio (730), behind St. Louis Cathedral, is George Rodrigue's flagship for Louisiana landscapes and Blue Dog paintings. Feet First (526) sells women's shoes and clothing, and at the lower end Fifi Mahony's (934) fits custom wigs and No Rules Fashion (927) sells costume accessories for Carnival.

Best Time to Visit

Go Monday to Saturday. Most dealers and galleries open between 9 and 11am and close at 5 or 6pm: M.S. Rau is open Mon–Sat 9am–5:15pm, Royal Antiques Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, James H. Cohen & Sons Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm and Wellington & Co. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. On Sunday, Elliott Gallery (daily 10am–5pm), Martin Lawrence (daily 10am–6pm), IRIS Galerie (Sun 10am–7pm), 812 Royal Gallery (Mon and Wed–Sun 10am–5pm), Rodrigue Studio (Sun 12–5pm), Feet First (Sun 11am–5pm) and No Rules Fashion (Sun 12–5pm) are open. Angela King and Fifi Mahony's don't post hours, so call ahead.

For unhurried gallery browsing, go on a weekday. The stretch from Bienville to Orleans closes to cars every afternoon, 11am–4pm on weekdays and until 7pm on weekends, and fills with street musicians. Construction is under way on parts of the street, but the shops on those blocks stay open.

If You Only Have an Hour

Start at Royal Antiques (309), then cross to Martin Lawrence (433) and James H. Cohen & Sons (437). Look in at Wellington & Co. (505), and give the rest of the hour to M.S. Rau (622), where the showroom runs through three buildings and three stories. If time is left, finish at Rodrigue Studio (730).

Where to Eat

Brennan's at 417 Royal is the breakfast stop, and Time Out calls it the birthplace of Bananas Foster. Galatoire's, a block off Royal at 209 Bourbon St, is MICHELIN Recommended, and Friday lunch is the tradition there. For something quick, Killer PoBoys at 219 Dauphine St is also MICHELIN Recommended for counter-service po'boys on Dong Phuong bread. GW Fins at 808 Bienville St, two blocks from Royal, does fine-dining seafood with a daily-changing menu.